Scaling the heights

The Pic du Midi

One of the lovely things about living in the foothills of the Pyrenees is the ever-changing views; the mountains have a life of their own and like to put on a good show. Today we woke up to a dusting of fresh snow on the top of the highest peaks which completely changed the landscape and the perspective and motivated us to make a quick trip up to one of the highest peaks to take in what must be one of the best views in France.

This is an ideal time of year to head up into the mountains – the air is clear and cool in the mornings but beautifully warm in the afternoons and the clarity of the light is almost unreal. The highest easily accessible peak in the Pyrenees is the Pic du Midi where a journey of two cable cars whisks you up to 2877 metres. (The actual highest peak in the Pyrenean range is on the Spanish side, Pico de Aneto at 3406 metres.)

The cable car to the summit

The Pic du Midi is visible from all over this region, particularly driving around the Haute Garonne, its telescopes and large aerial making it stand out clearly from the other peaks. Most people take the trip to the top just for the view and it is certainly worth it for that alone although also at the summit you will find the highest museum in Europe. More serious star gazers can book into the small hotel (just 19 guests) for an overnight stay with conducted tours and use of the telescopes – as well of course, gourmet dining. At night from the top, they say you can see the lights all the way from Biarritz to Barcelona.

For me it is just great to be driving around looking at the Pic du Midi every day and knowing what it feels like to stand up there, on the top of the world.

One of the telescopes and the view

Best of both worlds

The great thing about living right on the border of France and Spain is that, here in the Ariège and Haute Garonne, we get flavours of both cultures - with the emphasis on the best bits of each of course. Thus we have paella in the local markets and lots of Spanish themed festivals but these will generally be accompanied by French wine and croustade or tarte tatin.

Living so close to Spain also means that we are able to just pop over the border into Spain if we fancy the idea of tapas for lunch; which is exactly what we did yesterday, not so much for the food this time – although it was fantastic – as for the sunshine. Very unusually for this part of the world, we have just had a week of almost continuous rain (last seen in 1972, according to our local doctor) and, having lived here for a long time now, we seem to have rather lost that English tolerance to such weather.

Hence we decided that we would take a two hour drive (we are only 20 kilometres from Spain as the crow flies but the car journey is slightly more convoluted) over the mountains to see if we could find some sunshine. Sure enough, as we sat at the traffic lights on the French side of the tunnel leading into Spain, the temperature gauge in the car read 14 degrees; by the time we had travelled three kilometres through the tunnel and down the other side of the mountain, the temperature was already 27 degrees and by the time we were installed on the Spanish restaurant terrace 20 minutes later, it was 30 degrees.

What an amazing spot to live; where it is possible to travel a few kilometres through the mountainside not only from one country to another but from one completely different weather system to another, speak another language and eat completely different food. There can’t be too many places like this, where you really can enjoy the best of both worlds.