Delays ahead - with bells on...

In the next couple of weeks I will be allowing extra time when out on property searches and viewings in the high valleys of the Pyrenees. At this time of year roads and even whole villages are likely to be closed at certain times to accommodate one of the great cultural traditions of this part of the Ariège; the transhumance or literally ‘the seasonal movement of livestock,’ a practice which dates from at least the Middle Ages.

This happens twice a year and takes on epic proportions when the animals from the farms on the valley plains are herded up to the high mountain pastures to spend the summer months in freedom. In October it is the opposite procedure with the descent back down from the mountains to the valleys for the winter. The numbers are impressive - in the Ariège over 12,000 cattle, 40,000 sheep and over 1,000 horses make this annual pilgrimage to higher pastures. This is why, when walking the mountain trails and passes around here in the summer, the hills are alive with the sound of bells; you will often come across groups of Merens, the local breed of horse, a bell around the neck of the leader, free to wander where they please, or cows similarly oblivious to the gentle chiming they make with every move. Likewise, you will find herds of sheep seemingly quite alone but actually guarded by the beautiful white dogs of the Pyrenees, the Patou, who stay with the animals and protect them from attack or harm.

The journey from valley to mountain with the herds of animals during the transhumance can take several days and takes on a holiday atmosphere with many members of the villages and surrounding farms helping out and camping together each night. The whole event has become a friendly social gathering and walkers are always welcome to join the farmers as they move their animals. Many have no experience of farming but take part in order to encounter a way of life still so firmly rooted in tradition and something that probably most of us imagined had died out centuries ago.

For me, the most dramatic procession from a spectator’s point of view is the troupe of 200 or so Merans horses (the local breed) making the journey from their fields in St Lizier through the narrow streets of the towns and villages and then slowly up the mountain roads, expertly herded by a few brave souls whose main means of controlling them seems to be a frantic waving of arms. It’s certainly not a sight that you see every day and a perfect illustration of the enduring and unchanging way of life here in the foothills of the French Pyrenees – and certainly a more entertaining way to be delayed on the way to work than heavy traffic on the M25.

 

Have the French found the recipe for happiness?

According to a survey by the Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD), the French spend more time eating, sleeping and shopping than any other country. I have lived in France for eight years now and I would say that yes, it’s all true – but how do they do it, how do they find all this extra time in their lives when the rest of us seem to struggle to find time to grab a sandwich or even get enough sleep?

Apparently the French sleep an average of 8.5 hours (yes average!) It makes France the longest sleepers out of all 34 of the OECD’s members. Does this mean that the French have less to fit into their days or are they just more relaxed about what does and doesn’t get done? Do they have less to worry about – or maybe they expect the state to do their worrying for them – and thus sleep easy at night (or in the afternoon!)

The French also spend the most time eating and drinking at more than two hours per day on average which is nearly twice as long as the Americans and Canadians. Looking at obesity rates though, clearly time spent consuming doesn’t necessarily mean more consumed. Of course it is this emphasis on long, lazy lunches that brought many of us here in the first place but it is very noticeable that the French do not eat or drink excessively – a meal is probably less dense than in the UK but each element makes up a separate course to be lingered over, enjoyed and never rushed. Nor do the French tend to snack in my experience. So more food and wine isn’t crossing the lips of the French – it just feels as if it is.

It turns out that the French are big shoppers too – or perhaps just slow shoppers.  According to the report, the French spend 32 minutes each day shopping. However, I would guess that we are primarily talking about shopping for food here. Most of the French people I know shop for fresh ingredients every day and have no problem taking their time about it – it is all part of that pleasure of appreciating their food.

Unsurprisingly therefore, the report also shows that French people have the second-highest life expectancy in the OECD, presumably thanks to the high amount of time spent enjoying themselves. Add that to the 28% of GDP that the French state spends on healthcare and social welfare, the highest spending of any OECD country and it all starts to make perfect sense.

The rest of us can only look on enviously - or make that move to France and hope that some of the magic dust rubs off. Vive la France!

To be or not to be – your very own Hamlet

One of the best bits about this job is getting to visit lots of interesting houses, barns and ruins, many of them tucked away in hidden corners of the region. Some are wonderful, others less so but this morning I have just been to see something really unusual; a complete hamlet for sale made up of a large stone house, a six person gîte, a four person gîte and three lovely un-restored barns.

The owners, now selling up, have been living ‘the dream’  here in the Couserans region of the Ariège for the last 30 years, having restored this collection of crumbling houses and stone buildings and transformed them into a thriving gîte business. They have two horses on the couple of hectares of land surrounding the hamlet and beautiful gardens with mountain views in all directions. If only I were an estate agent, this is one I could certainly wax lyrical about.

Unfortunately I don’t have a client with the necessary million Euro budget to buy this right now but I do know from the enquiries I get that more and more people are looking for a better work-life balance and a bit of land where they can live a life more attuned to their environment. One of the most popular ways of achieving this is moving to rural France to set up a gîte business but the problem with this is that, in many parts of France, the market is now saturated and gîte owners are finding it increasingly hard to compete and earn a living. 

Interestingly however, this is not yet the case in the Ariège which has a distinct lack of good quality gîtes in an area which otherwise provides the perfect holiday destination summer and winter. Hence this gîte complex is already almost booked up for the summer and also regularly booked up for the ski season, the nearest resort of Guzet Neige being just half an hour away.

So while not everybody looking to move here is going to have this kind of budget, the dream of running a gîte business in the Ariege is probably more achievable than it would be in most parts of France. And if you are interested in being Lord of the Manor, just get in touch for more details.

Orchids and Tomatoes - in April!

For a few weeks already, Spring has well and truly sprung in our lovely corner of France and right now, it suddenly feels as if we have moved into full blown summer. I am no expert but it seems to me that the garden, woods and fields here are all at least a month ahead of where they would normally be in the middle of April.

This morning while walking the dog in the fields behind the house, I noticed that all the orchids are in full bloom which is definitely usually a May phenomenon. Mind you, I still can’t believe that I walk the dog on a daily basis through fields of orchids – in the UK it was a trek through fields of dandelions, nettles and mud so it still feels incredibly exotic to be trying to avoid stepping on orchids and fritillaries and watching lizards scuttle across the path in front of me! The Ariège region is well-known for the diversity of its plant and wildlife, much of it down to the fact that the farmer’s rarely use chemicals on their fields here and much of the land is given over to pasture and grazing rather than intensive agriculture.

The garden too is looking amazing. Of course everyone’s garden looks amazing in spring but this year everything seems to be competing to flower the longest and most abundantly. The vines – usually reticent about budding up too early - are already covered in leaves and the lemon tree is also heavy with scented flowers. Mind you, the grass is growing like crazy too as are the weeds and I expect the slugs are rubbing their tentacles together in excitement that I have already dared to plant tomato plants and sweet corn so early, ever optimistic that we have seen the last frost. At this time of year too there is the lovely juxtaposition of snow-topped mountains seen through blossom and flowers which is a magical sight.

It is one of the many things I love about this region that everything grows so well and prolifically here. I guess it is a privileged climate; a combination of the hot sunshine of the south of France and the protected micro-climate provided by the mountains but also the heavy rainstorms we sometimes get in the spring and late summer that keep the water table high. Much as I love to go on holiday to places like the Mediterranean, I wouldn’t want to live anywhere that is baked and parched. Maybe it is because I have grown up in England but, for me, living in the country is all about greenery, nature’s bounty and the miracles going on around me on a daily basis. Plus the fact that I can grow vegetables so easily – here you just plant them and they grow. The Ariège is certainly the place to live for anyone who wants to live in a perfectly balanced natural environment – and who wants to feel that they have the green fingers of Alan Titchmarsh!

Children should get out more...

...this is according to television presenter Kate Humble who is leading a campaign to get children back in touch with nature - and I couldn’t agree more. Of course, most of us realize that it is better for children to be outside in the fresh air with space to run around and nothing but their imagination and nature’s bounty to entertain them than to be sat indoors in front of a television or computer screen. But it certainly bears repeating and often as, apparently, the latter is how more and more of the children in the UK are spending their time.

Luckily rural France provides the perfect antidote to this; children here really do spend time in the countryside and they do understand and interact with nature – even if that happens to involve hooking it on the end of a fishing line! Maybe this is because France is predominantly a rural country with so much countryside and unspoiled nature available on the doorstep or maybe it is down to the attitude of us parents. In the UK, as Clive Aslet of Country Life Magazine points out, although a child’s postcode:

‘may locate them in a village, their lives will probably be suburban. Parents, worried about paedophiles and motor vehicles, won’t allow them to bicycle along country lanes. Instead, they’ll drive them everywhere by car. Shopping will be done at a supermarket that looks exactly like the ones in cities, except for being bigger and surrounded by more concrete. If the family goes on an outing, it will be to somewhere stage managed, with parking, toilets, noticeboards and disabled access.’

I think that there is a different attitude to children here in France; they are less molly-coddled, expected to be a functioning part of society and are given credit for having some innate common sense and self-preservation – in short, they have more liberté. I find it as difficult as any parent to know when is the right time to step back and let my children manage on their own and I can only speak of my own experiences, what I see happening around me but certainly many of the pupils at the primary school my daughter attends either walk or cycle to school on their own. In our small hamlet, the children come and go as they please from the age of 5 or 6; they visit their friends in neighbouring houses, take off on their bicycles on the quiet roads around the hamlet or make dens in the surrounding fields and woods. Of course, each family keeps an eye on everyone else’s children as much as they can but we generally have no real idea of what they are up to or even where they are and have to ring a bell to summon them back for meals. They are probably doing dangerous things like climbing trees or making towers of hay bales but it is through taking a few risks that children learn to be independent and develop into rounded people, better at dealing with the varied situations that life might throw at them. 

Certainly for me, one of the very best things about living in France is being able to give our children the chance to grow up in the freedom of the countryside rather than become sucked into the fake world of computer games, television stars, fashion and beauty. Of course these things will become more important to the children as they become teenagers but at least they will have had the fun of playing pooh sticks, damming streams, getting muddy and building their own worlds with branches and bracken. Hopefully they will be able to recognize birds, insects and trees and, most importantly, to understand the natural world and how it works because this is the generation that is really going to need those skills and understand how important they are if the countryside is going to exist for future generations. 

How to buy a house in France

I have a number of clients from all over the world in the process of buying property here in the Ariège, Haute Garonne and the Gers right now so I thought I would blog briefly on how the house buying process works in France.

Buying a house in France is usually very straightforward, well-regulated and generally far less stressful than in many other countries, particularly the UK. This is a very brief outline of the process but for more detailed information take a look at this article on the Frenchentree website.

Once your offer on a French property has been accepted, you will sign a Compromis de Vente with the vendor drawn up by the local Notaire. This is a written document and binding agreement between the vendor and the buyer which means that gazumping is pretty much non-existent in France. The Notaire is completely impartial, working for the government and often acts for both buyer and seller although I can also recommend an English speaking Notaire if preferred. You will usually be asked to pay a deposit of 5-10% of the agreed price on signing the Compromis de Vente.

Once you have signed, the house is taken off the market and you know that you have secured your home in France. There is a cooling off period of 7 days however for the buyer (not for the seller) to allow you to pull out without penalty and to give you peace of mind.

It then takes around two to three months for the Acte de Vente - the deed of sale – to be drawn up by the Notaire so as to be ready for the final signatures between the parties. The Notaire has to conduct planning and other searches and enquiries with the local authorities including ensuring that the necessary reports have been done by the vendor. These include lead, asbestos, termites, gas, electricity and energy reports which are all grouped together in a single report called the Dossier de Diagnostic Technique or the DDT.

Once the Acte de Vente is ready, the vendor and buyer meet in the Notaire’s office to sign and to pay the balance of the purchase price, legal fees and taxes to the Notaire (this money must be with the Notaire by the date of signing so, if transferring from abroad, allow at least 10 days to two weeks for the money to clear.) The Notaire’s fee is usually between 2-8% of the ‘net’ property price, the majority of which is effectively stamp duty that goes to the government. The estate agent’s fees are generally around 5-6% of the purchase price and sometimes these are included within the purchase price while other times they are quoted separately. House insurance must also be arranged by the time of signing. I usually advise my clients to visit the property on the day of (before) signing to ensure that the house has been left as agreed because the French do have a tendency to take everything with them, including the kitchen sink!

And finally you will get the keys to your new house. Congratulations, you are now the proud owner of your dream home in France. Enjoy.

Blood out of a stone

First find your property!

I sometimes wonder how anyone manages to buy a house in this region without using a property finder. I live and work here, I know all the agents and still the whole process of finding and getting to see the right property is sometimes a bit like trying to get blood out of a stone.

Firstly, despite the fact that I visit every agent most weeks to remind them exactly what my current clients are looking for, still there is hardly a single agent who gets in touch when they take on a new property meeting my client’s brief exactly (barring the odd exceptions who work very hard on my behalf.)

Secondly, not all agents are as keen as I am to head out and view potential properties. Yesterday I went in to see an agent because I had noticed that he was advertising a new property which looked very interesting for one of my current clients (there is no point just telephoning – everything works better face-to-face here.) The property – a mountain barn - appeared to fit my brief but the most important thing that I wanted to find out was where it was situated – location as we all know being the vital element, especially for mountain properties. The agent told me in which valley it was located (one of my favourite) and then suggested I could go and take a look and pointed a finger at a map as a vague illustration as to where I might find it.

I have fallen for this ploy before – and then spent a few frustrating hours trying to work out exactly which isolated barn I am supposed to be looking at and whether I am actually supposed to trespass and break in to get a proper look. So I suggested that maybe he could even take me to see the property and perhaps take along a key so I could look inside. I could see that this was now all getting a bit much for him for one day and he was finding me a bit demanding so I suggested that I could make an appointment for a viewing the next day. With much sighing and sucking of teeth, he took his feet off the desk and opened his diary to check just how busy he was the next day. The page was completely blank! So I said I could be there at 9am at which point he really put his foot down and said that he might manage 2pm (nothing happens before lunch here!) But at least we had a date.

Or that’s what I thought. So the next day, there I was at 2pm outside the locked offices with not a soul in sight. By 2.15 I was starting to get fed up and about to leave when the agent arrived looking slightly non-plussed as to what I was doing there. I reminded him and we spent the next 30 minutes looking for a key and directions to said property while he tried to persuade me that it really wasn’t worth the trip. By 3pm we were finally in the car but 20 kilometres later the agent then started fumbling around in his pockets and admitted that he seemed to have misplaced the key. So back we went to the office where we discovered he had dropped it on the road. It was now 3.30pm and the agent looked at his watch and said that it was now too late for him to go with me to see the property as he had an appointment at 4.30 and wouldn’t be back in time if he did.

Which was how I found myself yesterday up on a lovely mountain plateau, exploring various paths that may or may not lead to a perfect mountain barn. Luckily I had seen a photo and had a good idea of the location but, when I did find what I thought must be the right place, I was slightly apprehensive that I might be trying to unlock the door to the wrong house entirely, perhaps with the bemused owner watching me from the kitchen window. Luckily  however, that wasn’t the case and this particular property turned out to be very much worth the trip – two well-looked after barns, one of which had been renovated completely, in a great plot of land with lovely views and very peaceful. There was even vehicle access which is certainly not a given for many of these mountain properties.

Two perfect mountain barns - definitely worth a viewing

Of course many properties I visit do turn out to be not worth the effort – I usually see at least 10 properties that transpire to be no good for every one that makes it to a property report and possibly the short-list. Usually I will view up to 50 – 80 properties during one search, only 6-10 of which are likely to reach the short-list. But this property might just prove to be ‘the one’ which is why – in my opinion anyway - every property that sounds on paper that it fits the brief, is worth a visit.

This agent is the perfect illustration as to why the English property invasion is yet to arrive in the Ariège – and why I knew there was a need here for a property finder on the spot, working for the buyer not the seller and trying to change the attitude of the ‘old-school’ estate agents here. Whether the agent will then have deserved his commission if this does turn out to be ‘the one’ – well that’s another debate.