On your bike; the joys of cycling in France

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La Fête de la Musique

Summer here in France begins with the sound of music. The 21^st June marks the date not only of the first day of summer but, more importantly, of the public celebration of music and arts that is the Fête de la Musique. Launched in 1982 by the then Minister for Culture in order to promote music for everyone, it has become a much loved and celebrated festival all over France and has also spread to hundreds of other countries around the world.

On the 21^st June from midday to midnight, just about every town in France will have some sort of event or concert taking place and all genres of music on the streets, in the squares, in public buildings, parks, stations and castles along with, of course, plenty of good food, wine and merrymaking. The department of the Ministry of Culture in charge of promoting the Fête de la Musique requires that all concerts must be free to the public, that all performers donate their time for free and that it be open to any musician, amateur or professional, who want to perform in it (hence the quality of the music on offer can vary hugely!) The aim of the Fête is to attract as large an audience as possible and to popularise every kind of music from classical to rock, jazz to fusion, latino to choral, for everyone of all ages and from all backgrounds.

Furthermore, the Fête de la Musique is a way to encourage the major music institutions (orchestras, operas, choirs, music schools) to perform outside their usual location and to develop exchanges between city centres and their outlying areas, to offer concerts in hospitals or in prisons, to promote encounters and exchanges between young musicians and well-known talents and to encourage a love of music of every and any kind.

Celebrated in over 110 countries around the world, it is now the world’s largest music event and if you are in France on 21^st June, it is guaranteed to be happening where you are. Bonne fête.

Is this a good time to buy French property?

House prices in France have been slowly falling for the last two years but 2013 has seen the market stabilise and prices and property transactions now appear to be on the increase in this region. This could be down to French mortgage rates which are at an all time low or because, thanks to the financial crisis, there are some stunning houses on the market right now, many for sale at less than their true market value and hence investors are moving in. If you have been waiting for the best time to buy a property in France, I would suggest that this might be it.

Belts are being tightened here as everywhere but quality of life remains high. What’s more, the Midi-Pyrenees region has an unusually high stock of beautifully and solidly built stone houses in beautiful locations and this, combined with record low mortgage rates means that it is a buyer’s market here right now. Borrowers can access stable, long-term low rates from 3.35% for a 20 year fixed rate and 20 year tracker mortgages from just 2%. These are the best rates investors have seen for over 65 years and the best in Europe so it’s no surprise that I am getting lots of interest from investors choosing to lock in some long-term capital in consistently high value and stable French bricks and mortar.

Perhaps that’s why this region is the only one in France showing positive growth in house prices in the first three months of 2013 according to first quarter statistics from National Federation for Estate Agents (FNAIM) in France:

This map shows a regional breakdown of values in the first quarter of 2013, compared to 2012.

The FNAIM also saw transactions towards the end of 2012 plummet 25 per cent due to the change in government with socialist leader Francois Hollande coming to power. Buyers and sellers were holding tight to see what happened to the market but the market in this region at least seems to be on the move again perhaps because buying a house in this part of France is seen as both a lifestyle choice as well as a sound financial investment.

‘Communism’, ‘community’, the ‘commune’ – living in France illuminates the real meaning and the importance of ‘local’ government

The Marie in the village of Arbas

As a foreigner, it has taken me a good ten years to really understand the importance of the local mayor and Mairie in France because we just do not have the equivalent in the UK. We knew that when we moved in to our village that we were supposed to introduce ourselves to our local mayor, which we duly did. When we were converting our barn, I became on first-name terms with him and he was so pro our renovation that he managed to fast-track our planning application through the official procedure. When all the parents in our small hamlet (14 houses) got together to sign a petition for the provision of some kind of lighting at the bottom of the hill for the children waiting in the dark for the school bus at 7am every morning, just three months later, a solar-powered light was duly installed.

But it is the smaller, every day things that go unnoticed by the locals (who take such a service for granted) but which always amaze me, coming from a country where there is not much in the way of local decision-making anymore. Hence, our Mairie employs two full-time people just to look after the commune. By that I mean, sweeping the roads, clipping the hedges and verges, clearing out the ditches and maintaining the lights, school flower boxes etc. Oh and clearing the roads of snow and ice in the winter – and this is a very rural community where houses are scattered up hills and along gravel track roads but this service happens without fail.

The efficiency of this ground-level service was brought home to me again this week. We have had a stray dog in the garden for about four days, a lost hunting dog but this time with no collar so I have no way of returning it to its owners. But I also didn’t want to start feeding it as we already have two dogs and two cats who were understandably upset by a stranger in their midst. So finally I asked my neighbour what I should do and he immediately called the mayor who organized for the dog to be collected, taken to the vet to be checked for a chip or tattoo and then either to be restored it to its owner or try to get him re-homed by the SPA (the animal centres in France who care for and re-home stray animals.)

It’s apparently the same for any problem in the commune – M. le Mayor is the first point of call and, if he can’t fix it, he will know somebody who can. France is hugely criticised on the world stage for its number of state employees and I think we all know that the costs of these have become untenable but I hope that it will be the legions of pen-pushers and paper shifters who go before these hard-working locals who really care about and have a reason to ensure that their communities are well looked after and just make life that bit nicer for everyone.

Important things to look for and questions to ask when house hunting

Spring in the foothills of the Pyrénées

For most people, buying a house is not something they do regularly and it is easy to miss important details or forget to ask the right questions in the excitement, emotion and stress of the moment. So here are some things I look for and questions I ask when viewing properties or deciding on the right offer to make for clients:

·                     I always ask the seller why they are selling – not that you will always get the real answer but many are sellers are surprisingly honest!

·                     Look up and check the roof, are there any missing tiles or slates? Does it look in good condition or is it starting to sag? Does the guttering leak or can you see any gaps? The French are generally excellent at maintaining their roofs but a new roof can be a big and expensive job so, if it does need re-doing, it is worth being aware of this fact so that it can be used in negotiations.

·                     Check that the windows are in good order; whether there is any flaking timber or glass which is misting up if double glazed? 

·                     Turn on taps and showers; is there good water pressure? Does hot water come through quickly? Are there any leaks? 

·                     Do you have mobile phone reception? Can you get the other communications you need, such as satellite or cable TV and broadband? 

·                     Do rooms catch the sun, or need extra light? Can you see condensation on the windows?

·                     Can you hear people around the house? Try walking upstairs and in a room when one of you stays below, is it really noisy? 

·                     Make sure to take a look in the attic and especially at the beams to check for live beetle. The attic is also a good place to check if there is any insulation and in what state.

·                     Check what is included in the sale; often the French will expect to take everything when they go including light fittings and most of the kitchen so it is worth being sure on this point.

·                     Is the house private or overlooked by neighbours and, if overlooked, is there a way of securing privacy?  If there are neighbours, I always take a sneaky peak into their garden to see what sort of state it is in and whether they have animals such as geese which can be smelly and also very noisy.

·                     I also ask whether surrounding fields are ‘constructible’ or whether the land is ‘agricole’ because, if constructible, you are likely to have new houses appearing next door.

·                     Check for damp - can you see or smell any? This can be dealt with but it is worth knowing about in advance and before moving in.

·                     Does the property have the space you need? If not, in theory, is there room to extend the property, either into the attic or into an adjoining barn and would it be possible to add an extra room or two to the house? For example, if the house is in the Parc National de l’Ariège or in a ‘Batiments de France’ area, any additional building is unlikely to get permission.

·                     Which way does the property face? South and east facing are the ideal but in this region, which gets very hot in summer, it is also important to make sure that you can use the north side or at least have a shady terrace in the summer months.

·                     Is there a fosse septique (septic tank) and, if so, is it aux normes (the requirements for septic tanks have recently changed in France and the majority of properties will need a new one or some work done to bring it in line with regulations.) Budget 3-5000 Euros for this.

·                     How is the house heated? This is becoming an ever more important question with the high price of gas and oil. I am increasingly looking for houses where some of the energy is provided by alternative means such as wood, solar or geo-thermal.

·                     How much are the Taxes Foncieres and Taxe d’Habitation – these are the property taxes and generally are much lower in France than in the UK and many other countries.

·                     If the house is near a road, how busy is it? I usually go back to a property on several occasions at different times of day to check on this if it might be an issue although, in this part of the world, the most usual noises are generally cow bells or logs being cut. I have, however, viewed a house which was in a lovely peaceful spot with only one close neighbour but I noticed that, hidden behind this neighbouring house, were what look liked kennels, albeit empty and sure enough, when I returned the following week, in the evening this time, the howling of hunting dogs from next door was unbearable.

·                     How close are the nearest shops? In France it is also worth asking whether there is a baker’s van or butcher’s van that passes through because most hamlets are served by these at least once a week and often three or four times a week.

·                     In the South West of France, it is also vital to find out if the road to the property is cleared of snow by the town or village services in the winter. If the property is in a hamlet and has village electricity and water and families living there, they almost certainly will be on the ‘deneigement’ route but I have found houses or barns in the mountains that are hidden up tracks which are definitely not cleared of snow automatically and so you run the risk of being cut off for the odd week in the winter which many people here do not mind but it is worth being aware that this might be a possibility before it actually happens.

·                     Most buyers tend not to have surveys in France but, if the house needs work, I often ask a builder to take a look at the general state of the house to ensure that there are not likely to be any nasty surprises after the sale.

·                     Finally I always have my camera and my notebook on every viewing as the camera often sees details that the eye misses at the time and I write copious notes to jog my memory about every detail or issue that I want to check further.

Viewing houses can be really enjoyable and exciting or equally can be (and often is ) very disappointing but, if you feel that you have seen the house for you, just take a bit of time to ensure that you know exactly what you are taking on and that you will be able to deal with it. A house is for life, not just for a sunny day after a glass or two of rosé at lunchtime. My main aim is to ensure that my clients get the best possible house at the best possible price and have thought through all the pros and cons and this should go for everyone thinking of buying a house in France.

Does it make financial sense to buy a property in France?

Nothing illustrates more clearly the rise and fall of foreign home ownership in France than the currency exchange transactions and mortgage applications from foreigners looking to buy a home a France. And, although the property market in France has slowed during the economic crisis, France is still the top foreign buyer’s property hotspot according to all of the main financial organizations.

For example, HIFEX, the currency exchange specialist has recently published its Property Hotspots Report which puts France at the top of the list of overseas markets with 23% of potential buyers looking for a property to purchase in France with many believing that now is a good time to pick up a bargain.

The report, which reveals the top destinations for property ownership abroad, showed that buyers remain undeterred by the economic uncertainty in the Euro-zone. It also revealed that they have not been discouraged from buying property in France by the tax hikes that were introduced by the French government following the election of President Hollande. “With an abundance of low-cost airline routes, more tourists than any other country in the world, easy access and the great choice France offers for both snow and sun lovers, it’s easy to see why France remains a favourite with British buyers and regularly tops quality of life polls,” comments HIFEX director Mark Bodega. “In troubled times owners and investors seek safe havens, and they simply don’t come more secure or enjoyable than France.”

The Overseas Guides Company (OGC) saw an increase of over 40% in overseas property enquiries in 2012 with France continuing to be the most popular destination. France firmly secured its position as the UK's favourite place to purchase a home overseas, attracting the largest share of enquiries for each quarter last year, according to the data provided by OGC. The country ended the year strongly by recording a higher level of interest during October, November and December - traditionally a quieter period - than in both the first and second quarters of 2012.

Richard Way, editor of OGC commented: "Interest in France surged in the summer months and then never really fizzled out....Prices are deflated in most popular European destinations, but France appears particularly good value for money at the moment, given the numerous pretty character homes available there for very attractive prices. Village homes are particularly affordable and sought after."

Research by overseas mortgage specialist, Conti, shows that the stable nature of the French property market and a good quality of life are the main reasons why buyers are attracted to French property. Clare Nessling of Conti comments: "Buyers have increasingly been sticking to locations they know and trust."

Most Francophiles know only too well that France offers all sorts of lifestyle advantages but it is reassuring to know that the financial experts also believe that France is a good bet.

‘The origin of species’ and local markets (horse-meat optional)

Pick and mix cepes - the king of the mushroom

The whole horse-meat farce has highlighted once again a subject close to my heart – the importance of buying and eating locally sourced, fresh and seasonal produce. In many countries we have become far too far removed from the source of our food and far too disinterested in how this food is produced. Thank goodness this is not the case here in the Ariège (one of the many reasons we are here) where there is a very strong tradition of producing one’s own food (fruit, vegetables, eggs, rabbits and pigs) and of buying from local producers so that you know exactly where your food is coming from and what it contains (or hopefully doesn’t contain).

This is the right part of the world for me because I actually have a pathological hatred of shopping (in shops) which I realize is not very girlie of me but it is just not my thing. Luckily nowadays when I need a new shirt or pair of jeans, I can simply find and buy online and have my friendly postie deliver without having to go near a shop. And I particularly dislike shopping in the supermarket but this is something I find much harder to avoid because we are a family of six on a budget. In France, supermarkets are just beginning to cotton on to the idea of grocery shopping online but it is too big and too rural a country for home delivery to be an option so I do find myself in Intermarché far more often than I would like.

Having said that, however, one of the many reasons I love living here in South West France is that it is still quite possible to do the majority of the weekly shop at the local market which is exactly what I do. So every Monday morning, as soon as I have dropped the children at school, you will find me in the market place at Salies du Salat where I am first name terms with many of the stall holders and where I can find wonderful local, organically grown, in-season produce at a much better price than in the supermarket. Here shopping is brought back to a human level – I can discuss every subject under the sun (the French just love a good debate) while choosing my apples or my ham and generally pass the time of day so that by the time I am finished it just feels that I have spent a pleasant couple of hours chatting having incidentally done my weekly shop. We are spoiled for choice for fantastic local produce here; the cheese is out of this world, the eggs freshly laid, the meat excellent quality (yes there is horse but it is labelled as such!) and locally sourced and the fruit and vegetables are seasonal unless they have come over the border from Spain, in which case it is possible to find the odd red pepper or tomato in the winter months. Then a quick trip to the smiliest bakery in France and I am back at my desk by mid-morning to begin my working week.

By Saturday, if we are running out of fresh produce, we have one of the best markets in France, incredibly colourful and eccentric, just 15 minutes away in Saint Girons which is worth a visit even if you don’t have any shopping to do.

Somehow shopping at the local market is uplifting and life affirming while supermarket shopping destroys the soul. I leave the market feeling happy and energetic and I leave the supermarket feeling depressed and drained. If only I could wean my children off breakfast cereal and pasta and myself off coffee and chocolate, I could pretty much eliminate the supermarket shop altogether which I think is going to be one of my new season resolutions.

And now I shall get off my soap box and I promise my next post will be back on property...!

Striking skiing - the school day in France

A tough day at school!

We have discovered since living in France that, most of the time here, it is best just to go with the flow. Hence, when we learned on Monday that Tuesday school was cancelled (teachers on strike for the day), rather than stressing about childcare and cancelled meetings, we decided to ‘saisir le jour’ and hit the slopes for the day, despite the forecast looking decidedly ropey. The teachers, however, clearly had insider knowledge that neither we, nor Meteo France were privy to because by the time we had our skis on, the clouds had cleared, the sky was blue, the views were breathtaking and we spent the day skiing on 30 centimetres of fresh powder and almost empty pistes (only a few teachers to be seen here and there!) in the sunshine, punctuated by lunch in our favourite restaurant.

Nice spot for lunch - Chalet Beauregarde

It is days like these which remind us why we decided to settle in this very special part of the world. There can’t be many places where you can be skiing within an hour of leaving home and the fact that our nearest skiing happens to be one of the best kept secret in the Pyrénées, means that we often feel as if we have our own private ski resort. And yet, while much of Europe has been struggling with bad weather and snow, we have not had any at home; we just have the pleasure of looking at it on the mountains from the window and enjoying it on sunny days when we feel like it.

Empty pistes and fresh powder snow

The teachers certainly picked their day for a strike – and we are already looking forward to the next one!

Paradise in the Pyrenees

P.S. We weren’t the only one bunking off – the gendarmes were at it too!

Police on piste

Home sweet home

We did our first ever home exchange over Christmas and New Year as a means of having a holiday that we would otherwise never have been able to afford. It was such a great experience that I am wondering why everyone doesn’t do it as a matter of course. Perhaps we just got lucky with our exchange partners but I have spoken to other people now who have had a similarly positive experience and are already planning their next exchange so it is obviously a scheme which is gaining in popularity.

The whole idea is such a clever and obvious concept; after all, why leave your house empty for two weeks and pay someone else to spend two weeks in their house – why not just find someone who lives in a place where you would like to go, who would like to visit the area you live and then swap houses, cars, pets, neighbours etc? We didn’t even exchange houses at the same time; there are plenty of people out there who exchange their holiday homes and so can be flexible as to dates and there is such a plethora of properties available for exchange now on the various house exchange sites, that it is quite likely that you will find the perfect match.

Obviously it helps to not be too precious about your house but, in the current belt-tightening times, it does just seem to make so much sense, especially if it is the difference between having a holiday or not. There seems to be plenty of demand too for houses in France and we get offers of exchanges all the time, so anyone who has a home or a holiday home out here is likely to have a really wide choice of properties and locations to choose from. And an extra bonus for us has been the wonderful feedback we got from our exchangers which has made us yet again realize in what a very beautiful and special place we live and made us appreciate our home all the more.

The rise and rise of ski and mountain properties

Luchon in the snow

Having been lucky enough to spend Christmas and New Year on the slopes, I thought I should take a quick look at the ski property market here in the Pyrénées. While a financial avalanche threatens to engulf many property markets in the Euro zone, ski properties are bucking the trend and growing in popularity. Ski properties now account for 9% of the British-owned holiday home market overseas, according to Savills, and ski tourism is on the up too, expanding by 5% a year for a decade. And although cheapness is rarely a word associated with ski property, there are still plenty of well-located and excellent value ski properties available in this region to buyers of all budgets, particularly for those people seeking bolt-holes that they can use themselves, rent out easily and hopefully reap some eventual capital gain.

France is still Europe’s most popular ski destination for property buyers, attracting a third of the market. The millionaires head to their super-chalets in Megève and Courchevel, with average costs of around 9,300 Euros per square metre but France has a huge range of lesser-known and far better value resorts with equally good skiing and very reasonable property prices.

This is particularly true of the ski resorts here in the Pyrénées, many of which are almost unknown to the foreign investor and yet which offer fantastic investments – with some great skiing thrown in. Particularly popular with my clients in the last few years has been the area around and close to Superbagnères (the ski resort attached to Bagnères de Luchon) where prices per metre are closer to 2,600 Euros, although higher for property right in the town. With its antique shops, restaurants, cafés, hotels, nightclub, casino, cinema, golf course, tennis courts, chocolate shops, market and spa, Luchon is one of those towns that exudes ‘old money’ and is very stylish but still very affordable. Being a popular holiday destination winter and summer (thanks to its ski resorts, thermal baths and spa, plethora of year-round activities, fantastic walking and cycling, stunning scenery and easy access from Toulouse and Pau), properties here have excellent rental potential all year round.

A one-bedroom apartment in the middle of Luchon would currently cost around 100-120,000 Euros and would rent out for around 250-400 Euros per week. For a typical example of the type of property available and possible rental potential, take a look at www.luchonlocation.com (I must declare a personal interest in this one!) For a French holiday retreat and excellent year-round rental investment, I would have to say that Luchon and the French Pyrénées are hard to beat.

Wishing you a very happy 2013 and hoping that, whatever your dreams for a home in France, they all come true.

The Property Market in South West France in 2012

Fresh snow on the Pyrenees in time for Christmas

I have just been reading through the swathe of end-of-year reports from various estate agent groups, notaire’s associations and finance companies in order to get an overall picture of how the French property market has performed in 2012. They make interesting and confusing reading which pretty much sums up the property market in this part of France. Having started the year with low expectations of client numbers, I have in fact been hugely busy but there has been absolutely no pattern throughout 2012 either in types of buyer or the sort of property I have been asked to find. And budgets have also been right across the scale. So what is going on according to those in the know?

Well the latest figures published by the ‘Notaires de France’ show that prices have fallen nationally by 3% in 2012 although this figure hides some notable falls in certain areas and rises in others (prices around Toulouse have actually risen by 4.5%). Over the past year, FNAIM, the national association of French estate agents, reports that house prices have fallen by an average of 1.3%. There has also been a substantial fall in property sales with both Notaires and estate agents reporting a slump of around 20% in the volume of sales despite the record low mortgage rates, at around 3.3%. Much of this is to do with the banks who have introduced tougher lending criteria with the result that mortgage lending is down by around 30% in the past year, a record fall and this is keeping the market subdued. Those departments that have continued to show positive growth in house sales over the past four years are Haute-Garonne, Gironde, Indre, Savoie and Haut-Savoie.

In this region, there has certainly not been a noticeable drop in prices actually asked this year but I have noticed that sellers are being more realistic about accepting offers below their asking price and this seems to have revitalised the market here and kept things moving. This means that 2012 has been a buyers’ market which is ideal for my clients and I would guess that this will continue into next year. Village properties have also been very popular this year, perhaps because of the generally lower price range and properties needing total renovation are also in the frame again as are part renovated properties which are habitable though in need of some finishing, as long as the price is realistic and reflects the work to be done. In addition, demand for luxury and high end properties in good locations is also strong, thanks to a lack of domestic buyers which has opened up opportunities for British and international buyers to snap up desirable properties.

So how to sum up the property market in this region in 2012? Well, despite the continued uncertainty in the Euro-zone, France stays consistent in its appeal to foreign buyers and I can’t see that the wish to own a small part of this beautiful country changing any time soon. Certainly the lower risk factor of buying property here keeps buyers and investors interested and the very low mortgage rates, tight controls and the weakening Euro mean that French houses are still very good value. And while property in this region hasn’t been reduced to bargain basement prices, it generally remains well under UK averages with plenty of properties available within any budget.

So despite the widely varied reports on the market from different sectors of the industry, 2012 has been a relatively stable year for French property in my region. Sellers have become more realistic about the price they are likely to get and buyers seem to be more flexible in the kind of property they are looking for and the compromises they are prepared to make. This is keeping the market moving and property here has been a very good investment in 2012.

I don’t have a crystal ball and I hesitate to make any predictions for 2013; I don’t think anyone knows what is going to happen in the financial world and European crisis next year but I have every confidence that, for anyone who wants a beautiful French house in a stunning location combined with a fantastic quality of life and a lovely climate, this part of the Midi-Pyrenees is one of the better places in the world to spend money on property. But that’s not a prediction, just a personal viewpoint...!

I am taking a break over Christmas and the New Year and I shall be ‘un-connecting’ from every type of communication device! I wish you all a very happy Christmas and New Year and look forward to unearthing some more dream properties in 2013.

House-hunting out of season

Autumn in the foothills - Betchat, Ariège

Traditionally late November is the start of the low-season in the property world; summer and autumn house hunters have usually found the home of their dreams or, if not, have decided to wait and try again in the New Year and somehow our thoughts turn to hibernation and home comforts rather than new horizons and starting over.

In this part of France however, late autumn and winter is a beautiful time of year with lots of sunshine during the day, followed by chilly evenings that provide the perfect excuse for hot chocolate in front of the fire. It is also an ideal time of the year to visit the region and discover it laid bare; no roses around the door, wisteria over the pergola and shimmering swimming pools to distract from the actual property and your list of must-have criteria which can all go out of the window on a perfect summer’s day.

The lovely thing about this area is that there are many thriving, all-year-round communities unlike so many places in France which literally shut up shop in the winter months. Before arriving here, we spent a winter living in an area that went into complete hibernation from November–March; every house was shuttered and abandoned, every restaurant closed and the few locals who remained barely ventured out. Hence it was a relief to find a region that does not rely just on summer trade and tourists, where people actually live and work all year long. Here of course we are only an hour from numerous ski resorts which means that the winter ski season is about to begin (it is beautiful weather down here but I am looking at fresh snow on the mountains). We are also only an hour from Toulouse which, like any city, has something going on at all times of year and whatever the weather.

The property market has been very busy here since the Spring and there are still a great selection of properties for sale at all budget levels, as well as some good deals to be had with sellers keen to accept an offer before Christmas so that they can move on in the New Year.

Finally, here is a list of the Top 20 property blogs which I discovered quite by accident – and as I am on the list (albeit at the very bottom!) I thought it would be a shame not to pass it on: Top 20 property blogs:

Toulouse, 'la ville en rose'

Central Toulouse with the Pyrenees in the distance

People choose this region for many and varied reasons but an oft cited one is the preference to be within striking distance of a vibrant and thriving city and Toulouse fits this bill perfectly.

Toulouse is one of the fastest growing cities in Europe and the fourth largest city in France (after Paris, Marseille and Lyon). Toulouse has been a major success story since World War II and whilst much of the world is seeing stagnation and unemployment, companies in and around Toulouse are expanding fast. The city has attracted a vast range of investment from companies in the high tech sector, the aeronautical industry and the medical world, including public and private sector investment in the largest cancer hospital and research centre in Europe, the Toulouse Canceropole.

A young and vibrant city with a strong economy, Toulouse is an important centre for education with a world famous university and more students than any other provincial city in France. It also has a strong Latin vibe thanks to its close proximity to Spain which inspires its architecture and its temperament.

Also known as ‘la ville rose’ due to the predominant colour of the bricks, Toulouse is a major cultural centre, packed with museums, galleries and interesting architecture. This is a city that is a pleasure to visit; its transport system is exemplary, with a clean and efficient metro line and plenty of underground parking while much of the old centre has been given over to pedestrians and a popular bike hire system implemented. More and more of my clients are looking to be within an hour of this great city and it is easy to understand why.

It's never too late

I just met a lovely couple, both in their 70s, who wanted some advice about moving out to France and buying a property here. They have always dreamed of living in France for as long as they could remember and they had talked about it many times. But each time they seriously considered making the move, something seemed to happen that persuaded them to put if off for another year or two.

So here they are now 75 years old, determined to finally fulfil that dream. Their children are grown up with lives of their own and there really is nothing to stop them making the move – except fear. But they have now admitted that it was exactly this fear of the unknown which has prevented them taking the plunge year after year and they refuse to let this fear control their lives any longer; it is time to turn that dream into reality.

They have decided to embrace the unknown with all the adventures such a leap may involve. Bad things and good things happen wherever we live and whichever path we choose but allowing fear to dictate the course of our lives means that we will never experience the highs and thrills that come with embracing new and unexpected opportunities; “if you can meet with Triumph and Disaster and treat those two imposters just the same...”

OK so I tend to leap first and then look but this couple have filled me with optimism for whatever the future may hold because, as they have proved, it is clearly never too late to just leap, follow your dreams and take charge of your life so that you never end up regretting un-followed paths and wondering what could have been.

Heating your house for free

Eco-friendly, future-proofed house near Aurignac, south west France

A few years ago nobody was really interested in central heating systems when house hunting, especially not in southern France. The only question occasionally posed on viewings was whether a house had heating or not and whether it was actually necessary (yes). How things have changed – heating systems and energy efficiency is now recognized by sellers, buyers and governments as one of the major considerations and high on the list of criteria when viewing and buying property, even out here in sunny south west France.

Nowadays we are all looking for alternative ways to heat our houses that don’t involve increasingly expensive fossil fuels and finally we are all beginning to understand the importance of living a more ecologically friendly lifestyle. Worryingly, I am clearly getting old because I find myself now really quite fascinated by the various heating options that I am starting to see appear in many of the houses I view for clients and I have to admit to sometimes even getting a severe case of heating- system envy.

Old fashioned, stand alone oil or gas central heating systems are becoming rare; almost without exception (ruins excluded), most houses I view now have at least one wood burner and often a selection, usually with means of heating other rooms simultaneously. More and more houses also now have solar panels for hot water and increasingly for running low level heating systems, under-floor being the most usual. This makes so much sense in a region where we get a very high number of sunshine hours throughout the winter months and warm sunny days even in February but cold mornings and nights. And, more recently, I am seeing both geo-thermal and aero-thermal heating systems which appear to be fantastically efficient and cost effective, at least over the longer term.

Big properties clearly present the most difficult challenge when it comes to finding an affordable method of heating but are coming up with solutions which might well benefit us all in the future. In the last few months I have viewed three châteaux all with completely different heating-systems, each apparently effective and economical as well as ‘green’:

The first had a state of the art, wood-fuelled central heating system; effectively a huge wood-burner but on a much larger scale than usual (we are talking twice the size of a standard oil tank located in the outbuildings) connected to a huge boiler. The burner was filled with logs from the grounds once a week and then comfortably heated a 20 room Château.

The second was a large biomass boiler linked to a huge storage tank in the ground that was filled with all sorts of natural forest waste, branches, leaves, walnut shells, bark etc collected from the land around and belonging to the Château. A huge cork screw system ensured that there was a continual supply of fuel pushed through the system, controlled by a thermostat; hence heating this huge property to a really comfortable level all winter practically for free.

Thirdly, just last week, I viewed a huge manor house/château that had decided on the pellet burner option but on a far grander scale than I had seen before, with an enormous storage hopper for pellets in the adjoining barn that was filled a couple of times a year directly from a delivery lorry to fuel the heating system that was fed automatically by a pump, heating the house at a tenth of the cost of the previous gas system.

Of course, none of these options are cheap to install; each cost well over 30,000 Euros and all rely on an abundance of large outbuildings for boilers and hoppers and, in the case of the first and second property, land and trees to provide the fuel. But, as a long term, ecologically friendly and affordable way to stay warm, these systems all have a lot going for them and will undoubtedly become more refined, efficient and cheaper over time.

It again makes me realize how lucky we are to live in this region with its plentiful wood supply, year-round sunshine, an abundance of spring and mountain water available for hydro-electric systems and masses of available land for growing and providing natural fuel. More by luck than judgement, we live in an area where we have the resources to heat our houses sustainably and in harmony with the environment as long as we learn to innovate and make the most of and replace what nature has so kindly provided us with here. 

State of the art, wood-fired central heating system

Autumn is beach time in the Pyrenees

It’s that time of year again when everyone is back at work and school and hence the beaches, both Mediterranean and Atlantic are now empty. Which means that it is also the ideal time of year for a day at the seaside. The difficult thing living here is not just the decision which beach but, firstly, whether it will be Mediterranean or Atlantic beaches, both being almost equidistant, a bit over two hours and a very easy drive along almost empty motorways; I can never get over that - living somewhere that gives us the choice of not  just one but two oceans to visit.

The forecast promised much better conditions on the Atlantic when we looked the night before so it got the vote on this occasion. We always set off early to make the most of the day and arrive in time for coffee and Gateaux Basque in the sunshine at one of the many lovely cafes in St Jean de Luz before heading off to the sandy beach for a day of swimming, sandcastle building, cricket (just to keep the locals guessing) and people watching, all of course punctuated by a delicious seafood lunch. By the time we arrive home in the evening, it really feels as if we have had a mini-holiday and certainly recharged our batteries, ready for another (not so manic) week in the foothills of south west France.

Organic wine from the Ariège; delicious and good for you – santé

Philippe Babin

Most people have never heard of the Ariège – and that includes most French people – which means that very few people have ever tasted an Ariège wine despite the fact that the region now occupies the top spot for organic winegrowers in France, making up 25% of the total. However, the wines of the Ariège still tend to be ignored because the number of vineyards is minimal and the production is very low so it is actually very hard to get your hands on a bottle of wine from the Ariège. At the end of the 19^th century, there were 20,000 hectares of vines in the region but thanks initially to industrialisation and depopulation followed by Phyloxia and World War 1, the vines were gradually abandoned until by 1979, there were just 2000 hectares of vines under cultivation and today there are fewer than 100 winemakers in the region.

We were recently lucky enough to meet the charming Philippe Babin, one of the best-known organic wine producers in France, who produces the delicious Côteaux d’Engraviès. His vineyard is situated in little village of Vira to the east of Foix in a beautiful pocket of rolling hills tucked below the higher peaks of the Pyrenees. He started growing vines in 1998 on land which had never been treated with chemicals and thus was able to secure a subsidy to grow and produce organic wine. He took us on a fascinating tour of his vineyards and is an eloquent and entertaining host, clearly with huge passion for his wine and immense knowledge which he is happy to share. He insists that it is perfectly feasible to produce delicious wine organically and argues that it is only by growing without chemicals, that it is possible to get the true flavour of the grapes and the ‘terroir’; that all important hidden ingredient in every wine – the flavour provided by the land and position on which the grapes are grown. He also points out that the Ariège is a magical area for wine because it sits on the climatic cusp between the Mediterranean and Atlantic, with influences from both as well as from the mountains and thus he is able to use both traditionally Mediterranean grape varieties and traditionally colder climate varieties from the Atlantic region to create a truly special and unusual wine.

Philippe makes just three wines and I can confirm (after some serious tasting both in situ and since) that they are all delicious. If you are lucky, you might be able to buy his wine from his website but it is very much first come, first served because demand for Côteaux d’Engravies now outstrips supply. Even better, pay him a visit. Here’s the link: http://www.coteauxdengravies.com/index.php?store=18&erase_records=1 

The reality behind the photos

I thought this photo perfectly illustrated one of the many reasons why it pays to use a property finder out here, especially if you don’t have the time or money to make endless trips to France to view properties which look perfect in the photos but then turn out to be very disappointing in reality.

Of course, I am sure that there are plenty of people who wouldn’t mind living under a high voltage power line – I have even seen new houses built right underneath so that you can hear the hum of the electricity passing overhead. Others may be happy to have a huge pylon as a feature in the middle of their garden. But I know from experience that the majority of people moving to France are looking for a better quality of life and a healthier lifestyle and there is no way that I would ever recommend a house in this particular type of ‘hot-spot’ for any of my clients.

Hence the 90 minute round trip to view this property was a complete waste of time. But at least it was my time, not my clients’ and this is, after all, my job. Although these wasted viewings are very frustrating they are a large part of the search; the process of sorting the wheat from the chaff and making sure that I have seen every apparently suitable house for sale before drawing up a short-list of the very best properties on the market that match budget and brief. It is a time-consuming and frustrating process but also immensely satisfying when I know that I have found the ‘one’. 

How much is a French property really worth

I am sure I am not the only one drawn to Estate Agent’s windows whenever I visit a new country or region; of course houses are my business so perhaps I have more interest than most but I think many of us are fascinated to see the different sorts of property for sale in other places and the prices that are being asked. This is of course why estate agents put their most photogenic and seemingly best value properties in their windows - a sort of juicy worm to hook people in. But I know by experience how very misleading such properties and prices can be – it is the same on the internet with beautiful shots of tightly cropped and apparently very cheap houses for sale giving the impression that property in France is as cheap as chips. Well property in this region is certainly very good value but I think that many people window shopping for houses this summer are likely to be disappointed if they are thinking that they will be able to pick up something for almost nothing and, if it looks too good to be true, more often than not, it will be.

Although it has now become a buyer's market in France, there is as yet no general agreement that the reduction in the level of sales will be accompanied by any major collapse in prices and the general strength of the market over the past two years has surprised many analysts.

The difficulty for buyers in France right now is of course is how much a property is really worth and how much they should offer? It is usually said that a property is worth whatever someone is prepared to pay for it but it is human nature to want to get the best possible deal. The difficulty is working out what the best possible deal actually is and what the ‘right price’ should be? Is a house in the middle of nowhere worth more than a house in the middle of a village or vice versa? And is it better to buy a rundown property and spend money on improving it or buy one at a higher price where someone else has done the work? Is an old house worth more than a new? How much value does access to big towns and good transport links add to a house? And, in this region particularly, how much more does a view of the mountains add to the price of a property?

Although I have a good feel for what price a house should be in my region, I do still always look at four basic things when calculating if the house is correctly priced and deciding at what level to start the negotiations for my clients:

Firstly it makes sense to get an idea of what other similar properties are for sale in the vicinity and at what price. If the property is far more expensive than anything similar in the area then it has probably been priced at that level by the owners who think that is what it is worth rather than an estate agent or Notaire who will have a better idea of the real value. You need to be particularly wary of private sales for this reason and do your research well.

Secondly it helps to find out how long the property has been on the market as this will allow you to judge whether or not a lower offer seems plausible. A low offer on a property that’s only been on the market a few weeks is less likely to be accepted than an offer on a property that has been on the market for a year.

Thirdly it is very useful to find out whether there have been any price reductions. If a property has been recently reduced in price then it is unlikely that the owners will drop the price a lot further. Again, do your homework and find out if offers have been made in the past and, if so, what level were they at if you can – although this information can of course be difficult to get hold of.

Fourthly, it is always useful, if at all possible, to find out the personal circumstances of the seller and whether there is any urgency to sell. To find out the truth however is not always easy and usually takes a great deal of detective work.

A lot of people think that the current economic crisis in Europe means that French property prices are free falling. This just isn’t true. Whilst there are fewer properties being sold, there are also fewer properties for sale and prices are remaining stable. So by all means make an offer but be realistic or you are likely to be disappointed and tread carefully before making a lowball offer; the French tend not to take kindly to low offers and can feel insulted, meaning that chances of further negotiation are slim.

Dare I say that, of course, the very best way of ensuring that you are only paying what a property is worth and not a penny more is of course to employ a property finder...

Oh and a final word on all the scaremongering in the press about increased taxes on second home owners in France. For a start these are all still proposals but should they become law, they will have little or no effect on the vast majority. First rental tax only applies if you let your house commercially and the majority of second home owners don’t – they simply accept contributions from guests. Secondly UK tax payers are already liable to UK CGT on foreign property and tax paid in France is in any case off-settable against any UK liability and that will remain the case.